Hazel Findlay: “There’s something deeply rewarding about dancing with fear”

@martinhoscosta

Cover Image for Hazel Findlay: “There’s something deeply rewarding about dancing with fear”

@martinhoscosta

16 junho, 2025

At the age of six, she began to be shaped by the sharp chisel of the Welsh sea cliffs. Three decades later, she needs no introduction on any cliff in the world. Stands out for being the first woman to repeat routes like Golden Gate and Pre-Muir Wall on El Cap, as well as Magic Line in Yosemite Valley. Among her first ascents, Tainted Love in Squamish is notable, where she also became the first person to free climb Adder Crack.

I could spend this beautiful holiday talking about Hazel Findlay’s golden résumé, but it would be a waste of your bandwidth. You wouldn’t find anything here that doesn’t already exist in your browser history.

The topics I wanted to explore go beyond her accomplishments. Hazel has been studying subjects related to psychology and mental training in the context of climbing, and more recently, she has been dedicating her time to sharing everything she’s learned through her journey into motherhood as a climber. I’d like to highlight the article and guide she wrote for Black Diamond, referenced at the end of the interview, which served as the initial spark for this conversation.

«Clique aqui para a versão em português do Q&A»

You’re known in the community for your achievements but also for your love of climbing psychology and fear management. Do you believe your early days in the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire with your dad played a role in this?

Definitely. Those early days climbing with my dad on the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire shaped so much of who I am — as a climber and as a person. The sea cliffs are an environment that’s wild, adventurous, and a bit intimidating, so I learnt to manage fear early on and love adventure. My dad was always supportive, but he didn’t sugarcoat things; he trusted me to make my own decisions, and that gave me a strong foundation in self-trust and risk awareness.

I think that environment planted the seeds for my later interest in climbing psychology. I didn’t have the language for it at the time, but I was already learning how mindset and emotional regulation play into performance. And probably even more importantly, I was already enjoying the feeling of being fully present — something I now know as a flow state. That love of presence, of challenge, of learning to work with fear rather than against it — that started there.

Most of your memorable ascents are on trad routes which stand out, not only for their difficulty but also for the mental game pushed by sketchy protection or crazy runouts. How important is the mental challenge for your fulfillment?

The mental challenge has always been one of the most fulfilling parts of climbing for me. I really enjoy the process of figuring out how to stay calm when everything in your system is telling you to panic. There’s something deeply rewarding about dancing with fear, navigating that edge between control and chaos, and coming out the other side stronger and more self-aware. But I don't think I need to climb dangerous climbs to find that. and I think I've always been 'safe'. I don't think I have a much higher tolerance for risk than most people.

So far, I'm not sure how becoming a mum has shifted my relationship with risk. I haven’t lost the desire to do bold routes, but time will tell if I’m less willing to tolerate avoidable danger or whether I'm still motivated to do the climbs that feel bold.

What have you, as a climber, learned from your matrescence?

So much. First of all — that all mums are superheroes, whether they climb or not. Matrescence stripped me back and rebuilt me in ways I didn’t expect. As a climber, it’s deepened my lessons in letting go, acceptance, surrender, patience, and embracing cycles. It’s made me more adaptable, more forgiving with myself — and also more fiercely motivated when the window is there to push.

I’ve realised how much emotional resilience and mental training I already had in place — and how transferable it is to parenting: managing stress, holding space for discomfort, cultivating various mindsets like positivity, abundance, a growth mindset, and staying focused even when everything feels chaotic.

And perhaps most meaningfully, it’s helped me lean more fully into why I climb — not to be at my best all the time, but to keep learning, growing, and evolving.

In your perspective, do you feel the climbing industry is supportive enough towards female climbers in the motherhood process?

There’s definitely progress — but there’s still a long way to go. I’ve had some amazing support so far, but the future is uncertain. I know that a lot of big female names have been dropped. There are mothers who are successful and visible, but those are the women you see; you don't see all the women who become invisible after having a kid. The industry is still largely performance-driven, and there’s not always space in that narrative for what early motherhood looks and feels like.

What I’d love to see more of is nuanced storytelling — not just “look, she’s back crushing!” but the truth of what that process is: the setbacks, the body changes, the identity shifts, the balancing act. Also, better infrastructure — gyms with childcare options, climbing events that welcome families, brands that understand postpartum timelines.

What gives me hope is the number of women sharing their stories and pushing back against narrow definitions of success. The conversation is changing — it just needs continued momentum.

You’re a coach and fond of discussing and deconstructing misconceptions. In your opinion, what are the most prevalent misconceptions deceiving climbers these days?

One of the biggest misconceptions is that physical training is everything. Don’t get me wrong — strength and conditioning are important — but many climbers massively underestimate the role of mindset and fear management. You can be incredibly strong and still underperform if you don’t know how to focus your attention when it really matters.

Another common myth is about fear — that it’s something to be pushed through or ignored. I see climbers forcing themselves into situations that are too stressful for their current capacity, thinking they’re building bravery. But in reality, they’re just reinforcing fear patterns. True progress comes from working with fear, not against it — understanding your window of tolerance and expanding it gradually with intention and self-awareness. This is not an easy process, which is why we have a whole online course on it.

How would you compare trad climbing in the UK with the rest of the world?

UK trad is definitely its own beast. The style is often more adventurous, the protection spicier (because there are fewer cracks and bolts), and there’s a deep cultural appreciation for boldness and adventure. Our cliffs are small, but they often pack a punch with runouts, potential to deck or loose rock. It's not always like that, and sometimes the danger is overhyped, but it's a theme.

These days, you’re busy finishing up your master’s degree in neuroscience and psychology while raising Aliette and dedicating much of your time coaching at Strong Mind. What are the wall sirens singing to you?

I have a few little unfinished projects around home, if I have time for them, and we’re planning a more focused trip to Canada and the US later this year, which I’m really excited about. I'll probably try to find some trad mini-projects around there. Longer term - I still need to find my feet with how motherhood and climbing can coexist and how much I want to prioritise climbing hard still, which will also depend on the level of support I get from my sponsors, etc. I also want to finish my studies, write a book, and continue to teach!

Climbing Through Pregnancy

Thanks:
Hazel Findlay, for the photos provided for this article.

Additional Credits:
Cover image - Magic Line 5.14c, Yosemite, USA - Jacopo Larcher